Natenadze’s Wine Cellar
A 400-year-old vine, a forgotten region, and the man who refused to let it stay that way.
Four centuries of silence. One man with a mission. The wildest wines in Georgia.
Region: Samtskhe-Javakheti (Meskheti), southern Georgia
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Natenadze's Wine Cellar is not a vineyard in any conventional sense — it is a forest, a mountain range, and a centuries-old act of survival.
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Giorgi Natenadze forages wild, self-rooted vines growing up fruit trees in the remote highlands of Meskheti, crafting strictly limited natural wines from endemic grape varieties that exist almost nowhere else on earth.
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Each bottle is the result of years of research, hand-harvesting in difficult terrain, and minimal-intervention winemaking in traditional Georgian qvevri — an honest expression of one of the world's oldest, and most forgotten, wine cultures.
The story
For four centuries, the Meskheti region was occupied by the Ottoman Empire. Vineyards were uprooted, wine villages were abandoned, and the endemic grape varieties that had grown here since antiquity were left to fend for themselves — which, remarkably, some of them did. They climbed into the trees and survived.
Giorgi Natenadze grew up knowing this history. Over the past decade, he has devoted himself to searching the mountain forests of southern Georgia, near the Turkish border, for the vines that were never destroyed — only forgotten. He has found wild specimens more than a hundred years old, and one extraordinary vine he estimates to be over 400 years old, still alive, still bearing fruit.
In 2009, he produced the first wine to come out of the Meskheti region since the 16th century. Since then, he has identified 24 of the 40 rare grape varieties he has uncovered in these forests, each one a piece of a cultural puzzle that once seemed permanently lost. His cellar is not just a winery — it is an act of restoration.
Vineyard & terroir
There are no neatly trellised rows here. Natenadze's "vineyard" is the wild forest of the Samtskhe-Javakheti highlands, where ancient self-rooted vines — untouched by phylloxera, ungrafted, untrained — climb 15 to 25 meters up fruit trees the way they have for centuries. These are not cultivated vines. They are survivors.
The region sits at elevations between 1,000 and 1,650 metres above sea level, with a dry continental mountain climate, basalt stone soils, and volcanic limestone. The combination of extreme altitude, dramatic temperature swings between day and night, and mineral-rich volcanic earth gives Natenadze's wines a character that is impossible to reproduce anywhere else. Low yields, high acidity, and deep complexity are the natural result.
The grape varieties themselves are equally rare: names like Chitiskvertskha Tetri (bird's egg white), Chitistvala Tetri (bird's eye white), Kharistvala (bull's eye red), and Tskhenis Dzudzu Tetri (horse breast white) reflect a local naming tradition that ties the vine intimately to the land and the people who once tended it. Several of these varieties exist in only a handful of trees in the entire world.
Winemaking style
Natenadze's approach to winemaking is shaped by one guiding principle: do as little as possible, and let the vine speak. Grapes are hand-harvested from wild forest vines, often in difficult mountain conditions, and brought to the cellar where they are fermented and aged in qvevri — the traditional Georgian clay vessels buried in the earth that Georgia has used for 8,000 years of winemaking.
All wines undergo six months of skin contact in the qvevri before moving to stainless steel. There is no filtration, no fining, no artificial intervention. The result is wines that are unfiltered, deeply expressive, and harmoniously structured: low in alcohol, well-balanced in acidity, and carrying the unmistakable mineral signature of volcanic mountain soils.
Production is strictly limited — between 500 and 6,000 bottles per variety per year — because the vines themselves dictate what is possible. These are not wines that can be scaled. Each vintage is a small, unrepeatable event.